Latest Additions & Adds

Doctor Tweek is reducing his presence on eBay:

Due to the high fees and studio commitments I have decided to concentrate more effort into the web shop, continuing to provide excellent customer service and value. I will continue to sell a couple of items such as:

  • DPDT Footswitches
  • 3PDT Footswitches
  • Occasional bulk bargains

And in Doctor Tweeks Webshop:

The place in the UK for pedal parts

Parts, Components, Effects and Amps @ Doctor Tweek

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Custom Builds from Vachon Audio

Dave from Vachon Audio sent me some very nice pictures highlighting his custom built switcher boxes. The example below is an effects send and return pedal, allowing you to true bypass a non true bypass pedal, amongst many other uses. More details can be found by clicking on the Vachon Audio Link at Doctor Tweek Pedal Parts.

Vachon Audio Pedal in presentation case

Vachon Audio Custom Pedals come in a superb presentation case. Looking inside it all looks superb...

Nice!

The switcher looks very well made...

Ready to Gig

Very industrial and solidly built, ready for gigging

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Arbiter Fuzz Face – Germanium Re-Issue

A few people have asked about this… no great shakes, but there are a few different values used in this re-issue of the classic Arbiter Fuzz Face. I found a sketch out there and have drawn it up clean and mean:

Nice clean drawing of the germanium fuzz face re-issue by Doctor Tweek
Some slight changes over the original… nice.

This is the pedal that was built into the smiley face enclosure. Can’t say I like that big round tin. The size of this circuit could probably be buit into a match box…or your guitar…mmm – there’s an idea!

Don’t forget, you can get your nice AC128′s at Doctor Tweeks UK shop, as well as all the other bits and pieces you need such as footswitches and enclosures.
Google gave:
Arbiter Fuzz Faze reissue
Type of pedal: Fuzz/distortion
Features: Classic appearance, teardrop markers on casing and controls, numbered knobs, screwed-on rubber feet, high-quality circuitboard, wiring, potentiometers, jacks, and footswitch,
Price: $185.
Build one yourself - diy fuzzface

You can build this for very little

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Get Switched On

You may need a switcher pedal for an amp or indeed any type of switcher for your pedal board, fx, keys, synths or whatever. Sometimes something is available off the shelf, sometimes not. Whatever, you can have your switch solution custom built to your specs.

Michael from Sleeping Dog FX can have a look at your needs, discuss it with you and make what you need. He uses Doctor Tweek components, so you know you are going to get a quality build both in terms of attention to detail and in the way of reliable hardware.

Custom Built Marshall Footswitch made by Sleping Dog FX @ Doctor Tweek

Custom Built Marshall Footswitch for the 9001 Pre-Amp

Recently Michael made up a now discontinued swithcher for a Marshall 9001 Pre-Amp. He tells me that this is available custom built in the states for £110. Crazy! He custom built the item for £85 which included special LED lighting as well as an extra long connection cable. So, anything is possible  – if you need a switcher or any type of routing unit please contact Doctor Tweek, or visit Sleeping Dog FX through the builders links page.

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Silicon Fuzz Face PCB

Sleeping Dog FX have made up a really nice PCB for the Silicon Fuzz-Face (germanium coming soon!). To go with this Doctor Tweek is supplying a Silicon Fuzz-Face Parts Kit. It includes everything you need to build onto the PCB ad get it working in the box. Brilliant. The only thing you need to decide and add are which knobs you fancy – and there are plenty of choices at Doctor Tweek!

Full instructions are included in the kit:

  • Schematic (to help you tweek and modify should you wish)
  • Component Placement Diagram (explicit stuff!)
  • Top Tips Help Sheet (for the newbie to building)
  • Component List (so you can check stuff off)

Doctor Tweek's Silicon Fuzz Face PCB by Sleeping Dog FX

The board is available separately should you have your own components to use (dirty, filthy traitor!) – or you can even buy the component kit without the board so that you can vero or perf-board the build. Now that’s flexibility for you!  So have a look at www.doctortweek.co.uk   – obviously, any questions just ask at info@doctortweek.co.uk                                                                                                   Oh, Needless to say… it sounds bloody awesome, of course.                   

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Alternate Tunings

Alternate tunings are a brilliant way to breathe new life into your sound. Some are well known – some less so. I can’t take any credit for this wonderful list – originally found at http://www.howtotuneaguitar.org/tuning/alternate-guitar-tuning-chart/

But it’s worth a copy here if it gets it out to more people :)

Note that some of the more radical tunings will alter the intonation of your instrument… enough to live with probably if you are only tuning for a while; but if this is going to be a permanent tuning it is probably best to check your intonation. I have one guitar tuned down a whole step and another in DADGAD… these guitars are now set up to be perfect at these tunings (the ‘drop one step’ is a Floyd Rose and took ages to get right!). Be aware also that if you are using a short scale such as a Les Paul or Jaguar then droping lower than a standard tuning may well make the whole thing too floppy…but hey, floppy strings can be fun :)

Alternate Guitar Tuning Chart

Standard Guitar Tuning E A D G B E
Admiral C G D G B C
All Fourths E A D G C F
Aug Fourths C F# C F# C F#
Balalaika E E A D E E A
Baritone B E A D F# B
Buzzard C F C G A# F
C A D G B E C A D G B E
C 6 C G C G A E
Charango X G C E A E
Cittern (1) C F C G C D
Cittern (2) C G C G C G
Collins F C F Ab C F
Cooder Db Ab Db F Ab Db
D A E A E E D A E A E E
D Minor D A D F A D
D Modal D A D D A D
DADGAD D A D G A D
Dobro G B D G B D
Dropped A A E A D G C
Drop D D A D G B E
Double Drop D D A D G B D
Face C G D G A D
Four & Twenty D A D D A D
Fourths E A D G C F
G 6 D G D G B E
G Minor D G D G Bb D
Iris B D D D D D
Half Bent F Bb Eb Ab C F
Hendrix Eb Ab Db Gb Bb Eb
High Plain D E A d G B E
Hot Type A B E F# A D
Kaki King C G D G A D
Kottke C# F# B E G# C#
Layover D A C G C E
Leadbelly B E A D F# B
Lefty E B G D A E
Lute E A D F# B E
Magic Farmer C F C G A E
Major Sixth C A F# D# C A
Major Third C E G# C E G#
Mandoguitar C G D A E B
Mayfield F# A# C# F# A# F#
Minor Sixth C G# E C G# E
Minor Third C D# F# A C# D#
Modal D D A D G A D
Modal G D G D G C D
Nashville e a d G B E
Open A E A C# E A E
Open A E A E A C# E
Open C C G C G C E
Open C C G C G C E
Open D D A D F# A
Open D D A D F# A D
Open D Minor D A D F A D
Open E E B E G# B E
Open G D G D G B D
Open G D G D G B D
Open G Minor D G D G A# d
Overtone C E G A# C D
Pelican D A D E A D
Pentatonic A C D E G A
Processional D G D F A A#
Slow Motion D G D F C D
Spirit C# A C# G# A E
Standard E A D G B E
Tarboulton C A# C F A# F
Toulouse E C D F A D
Triqueen D G D F# A B
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Making Up Guitar Cables & Patch Leads

Michael from Sleeping Dog FX recently decided he needed some flashy new guitar cables and patch leads. With a gig up and coming there was no time to lose… rather than paying through the nose for inferior cables, Michael popped an order in with me for a batch of REAN (Neutrik) plugs and some rather excellent Evolution OFC Professional Instrument Cable.

Michael was good enough to photograph the process – yes it’s simple, but like all good things there is the right way to do it. The attention is in the detail, and if you want roadworthy cables that will stand the test of time then you have to do it right.

Pictures by Michael from Sleeping Dog FX, words and instructions from Doctor Tweek…

Step One. Get QUALITY Components…

Good Quality Cable & Plugs from Doctor Tweek

Step One: 6 meters of OFC anti-kink guitar cable and REAN Jacks

Michael's Bench - Sleeping Dog FX are made here!

Step Two: A collection of tools on the bench - nothing more frustrating than not having the right tools for the job.

The frst cut is the deepest...

Step Three: Starting to prepare for the first plug - Michael scores around the outer sheath of the cable, about 25mm from the end. Careful not to cut too deeply - just roll the blade over the insulting sheath all the way around the cable.

Once cut all the way round, pull off the insulation...

Step Four: Once the cable has been cut as in the previous image you can pull off the outer insulation.

Pull of the outer insulation...

Step Five: Heres the braid revealed after pulling off the outer insulation. Now, you didn't cut too deep and cut through this did you?

Cutting the intermediate insulation

Step Six: Here Michael is cutting the intermediate insulation. Note that he has moved the blade about 5mm further towards the end of the cable, also note that the blade is at an angle so that he has more control of the depth of cut. Again you don't want to cut all the way through...just this layer of insulation.

Twist the braid and remove the intermediate insulation...

Step Seven: The intermediate insulation can now be removed, revealing the inner insulation. Also the braid is now twisted between your finger and thumb.

Remove the inner insulation and twist the inner wires...

Step Eight: Repeat the previous step for the inner insulation. Again be careful not to cut too deep. A set of wire strippers is handy! Also twist the inner wire the same as you did for the outer braid.

Tin the wires.

Step Nine: Tin the wires - basically apply the iron to the wires and feed in solder until they are thoroughly imprgnated with solder. This is essential. Michael uses a set of helping hands here, which makes things a lot easier to handle.

Tin the plug

Step Ten: You also must tin the plug. Apply heat and get some solder to pool up on the two contacts. Another essential step.

Cable Meets Plug for Long Romance

Step Eleven: Here we go positioning cable and plug together. They will be good freinds for a long time.

Cut the wires to length

Step Twelve: After offering up the cable to the plug you will be abe to see what length you need to trim the wires to... use a pair of wire snips to trim them as in the picture above. Neat.

Soldering

Step Thirteen: Here's the cable soldered to the wire. Because you have tinned both elements they should come together easily. Use some flux on your bit to make sure everything flows together. When the work has cooled examine the solder joint and give it a good tug. It should be fab!

Sleeve and Case

Step Fourteen: Pop the sleeve and case onto the other end of the cable - the top Neutric jacks allow you to pop the case on from the plug end, but these REAN (Neutrik) jacks need the case sliding on before you solder the other end! Easy to forget - honest!

Crimp and slide

Step Fifteen: Note the wire is crimped in place using a pair of pliers on the 'sleeve' terminal. Then the plastic insulating sleeve slides over the whole assembly. Don't mis this item out - it insulates the connections from the case. Some cheap jacks don't have this. How bad is that?

Now do the other end.

Step Sixteen: Now it comes to repeat for the other end. First though, pop the other case and sleeve onto the cable. Don't forget - it is really embarrasing!

Gorgeous Finished Cables

Step Seventeen: So, heres the finished result. Best tested with a multimeter for connectivity and insulation...but plugging them in should be as good a test as anything. Fabulous Cables - much better perfomance than cheap shop items and a lot cheaper than some fancy name brands. Plus they have the Mojo that you made them. Thanks Michael for the pictures!

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Drilling Aluminium

I’ve had a few emails asking about the best way to drill aluminium. Bottom line and what works for me:

  • Quite a slow speed – about 800rpm (if you can do it) for the 12mm holes – bit faster for the small sizes.
  • A decent feed so that the bit cuts in and doesn’t just make the ally form a ‘skin’ which acts as a bush bearing, stopping progress.
  • Use Oil – or actually WD40 to lubricate the cutting edge. I’ve read about a combination of kerosene and bacon fat…. but let’s not go there! Oink.
  • Watch out for the ally clinging to the bit….it’s not actually melted, but smears over the cutting edge. Ally is very ductile…  Not good, but can be removed.
  • Use a center punch to get things started.
  • Work up in sizes – dont expect to drill 12mm straight off. Start small and work up in size (as the actress said to the bishop).
  • Remember that the bigger the hole, the slower the speed you need to use.
  • Get a stepper drill bit :)
  • Don’t panic.
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